I still get goosebumps walking across Charles Bridge at dawn, mist rising from the Vltava River as Prague Castle emerges from the shadows like something from a Brothers Grimm tale. Prague captured my heart on a grey November morning when I discovered a tiny pub in Malá Strana where locals had been gathering for centuries, their conversations mixing Czech, German, and laughter in equal measure. This city wears its history like a beautiful, slightly worn coat – Gothic spires pierce medieval skylines, baroque facades hide communist-era secrets, and every cobblestone seems to whisper stories of kings, revolutionaries, and dreamers.
Best Neighborhoods to Stay
Malá Strana (Lesser Town) – Royal Romance
This is where I always tell friends to stay for their first Prague experience. Nestled below Prague Castle, Malá Strana feels like stepping into a 16th-century painting. Baroque palaces line cobblestone streets, and every morning you'll wake to the sound of church bells echoing off ancient walls. The neighborhood is quieter than Old Town but still walkable to everything.
Stay here if: You want fairytale atmosphere, don't mind hills, and prefer charm over nightlife convenience.
Vinohrady – The Cultural Heart
Prague's former vineyard district is now its most sophisticated neighborhood. Wide boulevards lined with Art Nouveau mansions create an elegant backdrop for excellent restaurants, wine bars, and the city's best coffee culture. I love staying near náměstí Míru – you're on the metro line but feel like you're living in residential Prague.
Stay here if: You want to experience modern Prague culture, enjoy excellent dining, and prefer a more local atmosphere.
Old Town – In the Heart of Everything
Yes, it's touristy, but there's undeniable magic in being steps from the Astronomical Clock and Týn Church. I stayed in a converted 14th-century building here once, and despite the crowds outside, stepping into that medieval courtyard each evening felt like traveling through time.
Stay here if: This is your only Prague visit, you want maximum sightseeing convenience, and don't mind tourist prices.
Top Things to Do
1. Sunrise at Prague Castle
Beat the crowds with a 7am visit to Prague Castle grounds. The early morning light hitting St. Vitus Cathedral's spires is absolutely magical, and you'll have the ancient courtyards mostly to yourself. Plus, watching Prague wake up from Hradčany Hill gives you perspective on the city's incredible layout.
2. Beer Garden at Letná Park
Letná Beer Garden offers the best panoramic views in Prague along with perfect Czech beer. I've spent countless summer evenings here, watching sunset paint the city's spires golden while locals play chess and families picnic on the grass. It's Praha at its most relaxed.
3. Jewish Quarter Walking Tour
The Jewish Museum in Prague tells one of Europe's most powerful stories. The Pinkas Synagogue, where Holocaust victims' names cover every wall, left me speechless. The Old Jewish Cemetery, with its layered tombstones, feels like walking through centuries of history in one small space.
4. Vyšehrad at Golden Hour
While everyone crowds Charles Bridge for sunset, locals head to Vyšehrad – Prague's "other" castle. The views back toward the city center are spectacular, and the ancient cemetery here houses Czech luminaries like Dvořák and Mucha. It's Prague's most atmospheric evening walk.
5. Traditional Beer Hall Experience
U Fleků has been brewing beer since 1499 (yes, really), and their dark lager is unlike anything you'll taste elsewhere. The atmosphere is raucous, the portions enormous, and you'll leave understanding why Czechs consume more beer per capita than anyone else on Earth.
6. Wenceslas Square to Republic Square Walk
This walk through New Town tells Prague's modern story – from the spot where the Velvet Revolution began to Art Nouveau masterpieces like the Municipal House. Stop at Café Slavia for coffee and people-watching; it's been Prague's intellectual gathering place for over a century.
7. Vltava River Cruise at Dusk
Prague's beauty truly reveals itself from the water. As you drift beneath Charles Bridge, you'll see the city as merchants and kings once did. The illuminated castle reflection in the dark water creates one of Europe's most romantic scenes.
8. Petřín Tower & Hill
Prague's answer to the Eiffel Tower offers incredible 360-degree views, but I love Petřín Hill for its beautiful gardens and winding paths. It's Prague's best escape from medieval intensity, especially beautiful during spring when fruit trees bloom throughout the hillside.
9. Kampa Island Discovery
This tiny island between Charles Bridge and Malá Strana feels like Prague's secret garden. The Kampa Museum showcases modern Czech art, while the waterside park offers peaceful river views away from tourist crowds. Perfect for afternoon relaxation.
10. Traditional Puppet Show
Czech puppetry is UNESCO-recognized, and catching a show at the National Marionette Theatre connects you to centuries of Czech storytelling tradition. Even if you don't speak Czech, the artistry transcends language barriers.
11. Karlštejn Castle Day Trip
This Gothic castle, 30 minutes from Prague, was built to house Bohemian crown jewels. The train journey through Czech countryside is scenic, and the castle interiors showcase medieval life in incredible detail. A perfect half-day escape from city intensity.
12. Dancing House & New Architecture
Frank Gehry's "Dancing House" represents Prague's modern architectural spirit, standing boldly among baroque neighbors. The rooftop bar offers unique city perspectives, and the building itself shows how Prague embraces contemporary creativity alongside historical preservation.
Food & Drink
What to Eat
Goulash (Guláš): Rich, paprika-spiced beef stew served with bread dumplings. Every restaurant makes it differently, but all are hearty and perfect for Prague winters.
Svíčková na smetaně: Beef sirloin in cream sauce with bread dumplings, cranberries, and whipped cream. It sounds bizarre but tastes incredible – Czech comfort food at its finest.
Trdelník: Sweet pastry rolled in sugar and cinnamon, often filled with ice cream. Tourist trap or authentic treat? Locals debate this, but it's undeniably delicious.
Czech Beer: Pilsner was invented in nearby Plzen. Try Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen, or smaller brewery options like Bernard.
Where to Eat
Lokál: Modern take on traditional Czech pub food with excellent beer and atmosphere. Multiple locations, all maintaining consistent quality and authentic feel.
Café Savoy: Elegant Art Nouveau café serving traditional Czech dishes alongside international options. Their breakfast is legendary among Prague expats.
Kantýna: Trendy spot in Karlín that elevates Czech cuisine with modern techniques. Great for experiencing Czech flavors with contemporary presentation.
Ambiente restaurants: This local chain offers reliable Czech and international food in beautiful historic settings throughout the city.
Beer Culture
Czech beer culture is serious business. Order "jedno pivo" (one beer) and you'll receive 0.5L. Most pubs serve beer in two styles: světlé (light lager) or tmavé (dark). Tipping involves rounding up to the nearest crown – elaborate tip calculations aren't expected.
Getting Around
Walking: Prague's historic center is compact and best explored on foot. Wear comfortable shoes – cobblestones and hills can be challenging, but every step reveals new architectural details.
Metro: Three lines (A, B, C) connect major areas efficiently. Stations are deep (built as nuclear shelters) and some feature incredible Communist-era architecture. Day passes cost 110 CZK and include trams and buses.
Trams: Prague's extensive tram network is scenic and efficient. Tram 22 offers a cheap sightseeing tour, passing Prague Castle, Charles Bridge area, and New Town highlights.
River Transport: Regular ferry services connect different parts of the city via the Vltava River. It's slower than metro but offers beautiful perspectives on Prague's waterfront architecture.
Best Time to Visit
May-June & September-October: Perfect weather, beautiful light, and manageable crowds. Prague's parks and outdoor beer gardens are at their best during these months.
December: Christmas markets transform Prague into a winter wonderland. Yes, it's cold and crowded, but mulled wine and roasted chestnuts make wandering the illuminated squares magical.
March-April: Fewer tourists, lower prices, and spring weather gradually warming the city. Some attractions have limited hours, but you'll experience Prague more like locals do.
July-August: Peak tourist season with higher prices and crowds. If visiting in summer, wake early for popular sights and embrace the vibrant outdoor culture.
Budget Tips
- Beer is cheaper than water: Seriously. Czech beer costs less than bottled water in most pubs. Embrace this economic reality.
- Lunch menus: Many restaurants offer substantial lunch menus (polední menu) for 150-300 CZK – half the cost of dinner.
- Public transport passes: Day passes offer unlimited travel and pay for themselves after 3-4 journeys.
- Free castle grounds: Prague Castle courtyards are free to explore, even if you don't pay for interior tours.
- Parks and gardens: Many beautiful green spaces cost nothing and offer respite from tourist crowds.
- Happy hour benefits: Many bars offer reduced beer prices during certain hours – usually late afternoon.
Lucy's Insider Tips
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