The Florence Food Rules
Rule 1: If a restaurant has photos of the food on the menu, leave. If someone is standing outside trying to pull you in, run.
Rule 2: "Fettuccine alfredo" does not exist in Italy. Neither does "chicken parm." Ordering either marks you as a tourist who can be charged accordingly.
Rule 3: Lunch is the main meal. Florence's best-value eating is the pranzo (lunch) menu — many trattorias offer primo + secondo for €12-15. Dinner menus at the same restaurants are 40-50% more expensive.
The Must-Eat Dishes
Lampredotto
Florence's most iconic street food — slow-cooked tripe (the fourth stomach of a cow) in a crusty roll with salsa verde and spicy sauce. Sound scary? It tastes like tender, deeply flavoured beef. €5 from any of the trippaio (tripe cart) stalls around the city.
Best lampredotto: L'Antico Trippaio di Paolo Lucchesi (Piazza dei Cimatori, near the Bargello). He's been at this cart for 40+ years. Point to the lampredotto, say "con salsa verde e piccante" (with green sauce and spicy), receive perfection.
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
The king of Florentine food — a massive T-bone steak from Chianina cattle, grilled over chestnut wood, served rare (they will not cook it further, don't ask). Priced by weight — expect €45-55/kg, with a steak serving two people weighing 1-1.2kg.
- Trattoria Mario (Via Rosina 2, San Lorenzo): Shared tables, no reservations, cash only. Closes at 2:30pm. The most authentic experience — €42/kg. Arrive by 12:30pm or queue
- Buca Mario (Piazza degli Ottaviani 16): A medieval cellar (since 1886). More refined than Mario but still deeply traditional. €50/kg. Book ahead
- Perseus (Viale Don Minzoni 10): Where Florentines actually go. Outside the tourist zone, better prices, fantastic quality. €45/kg
Gelato
Florence invented gelato (Bernardo Buontalenti, 16th century — they named a flavour after him). But 90% of gelaterie near the Duomo sell industrial pre-made stuff from powder.
Signs of real gelato: Muted colours (not neon), metal lids on tubs (not piled high in display), and a short ingredients list.
- Vivoli (Via Isola delle Stinche 7): Florence's oldest gelateria (since 1929). The crema (egg custard) and pistachio are legendary. Small cup €3.50
- Gelateria della Passera (Via Toscanella 15r, Oltrarno): Tiny, seasonal, brilliant. Their dark chocolate is intense. €2.80
- My Sugar (Via dei Ginori 49r): Modern, creative flavours. The ricotta and fig is extraordinary. Cones from €3
Where to Eat by Area
San Lorenzo & Mercato Centrale
Mercato Centrale (first floor): A renovated food hall with proper stalls — Da Nerbone (since 1872) does boiled beef sandwiches (panino con bollito, €5) that are the working lunch of Florence. Arrive at noon when the meat is freshest.
Upstairs (second floor): More polished food court — truffle pasta, pizza, steaks. Good quality but tourist-priced (mains €12-18).
Oltrarno
Cross the Ponte Vecchio into Florence's most authentic neighbourhood.
- Il Latini (Via dei Palchetti 6r): Legendary, chaotic, with hams hanging from the ceiling. The ribollita (Tuscan bread soup) is the best in the city (€9). They'll bring you more food than you ordered. The wine flows freely. Cash only for tips. Book ahead
- Trattoria Sabatino (Via Pisana 2r): A workers' canteen where a three-course lunch with wine costs €12. No tourists. No English menu. Incredible food. This is the real Florence
Santa Croce
- All'Antico Vinaio (Via dei Neri 65r): Florence's most famous sandwich shop. A schiacciata (flatbread) filled with prosciutto crudo, stracciatella cheese and truffle cream — €6. The queue stretches down the street but moves fast. Open late
- Cibrèo Trattoria (Via Andrea del Verrocchio 8r): The no-booking, half-price sibling of the famous Cibrèo restaurant next door. Same kitchen, same quality, no pasta (Fabio Picchi doesn't believe in primo courses). 3 courses from €25
Wine
You're in Tuscany. Drink Chianti Classico (€4-6/glass in any enoteca). For something special: Brunello di Montalcino or Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Le Volpi e l'Uva (Piazza dei Rossi 1, behind the Ponte Vecchio): A tiny wine bar specialising in lesser-known Italian producers. Glasses from €5. Cheese and crostini boards €8-12. Possibly my favourite bar in Florence.