Day 1: History & Mitte
Start at the Brandenburg Gate — early morning is best for photos without 500 tourists in frame. Walk south to the Holocaust Memorial (Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe). The underground information centre is free and devastatingly powerful. Allow an hour.
Continue to Checkpoint Charlie — the outdoor exhibition boards are more interesting than the overpriced museum. Then to Topography of Terror (free) — built on the site of the former Gestapo headquarters. One of Berlin's most important sites, often missed by tourists rushing to Museum Island.
Lunch: Konnopke's Imbiss under the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn tracks (Prenzlauer Berg). Berlin's most famous currywurst stand since 1930. A currywurst with chips costs €4.50. The queue is part of the experience.
Afternoon: Museum Island — five world-class museums on one island. If you only pick one: the Pergamon Museum (€14, the Ishtar Gate from Babylon is breathtaking) or the Neues Museum (€14, Nefertiti bust). Museum Island day pass (€22) covers all five. The Berlin Cathedral (€9) next door has rooftop views of the city.
Evening: Walk along Unter den Linden to Hackescher Markt — browse the Hackesche Höfe courtyards (art, shops, restaurants) then dinner at Katz Orange (Bergstraße 22) — slow-cooked pork shoulder (€24) in a beautiful old brewery. Book ahead.
Day 2: Kreuzberg & the Wall
Morning at the East Side Gallery — 1.3km of the Berlin Wall covered in murals. The "Fraternal Kiss" (Brezhnev and Honecker) is the most photographed. Go early (before 10am) to avoid tour groups.
Cross into Kreuzberg — Berlin's most vibrant, diverse neighbourhood. Walk down Oranienstraße past street art, vintage shops and Turkish bakeries.
Lunch: Mustafa's Gemüse Kebap (Mehringdamm) — widely considered the best döner in Berlin, possibly Europe. Roasted vegetables, chicken, and their secret sauce in a bread roll (€5.50). The queue can be 30+ minutes. Worth it? Absolutely. Alternatively, Imren Grill (Kottbusser Damm) does an equally stunning döner with no queue.
Afternoon: Markthalle Neun (Eisenbahnstraße) — a restored 19th-century market hall. Thursday is Street Food Thursday (5-10pm) with 40+ vendors from around the world. Any other day, the permanent stalls still serve excellent food.
Walk along the Landwehr Canal — locals picnic on the banks with Spätis beers (€1-2 from any corner shop). This is Berlin at its most relaxed.
Evening: Görlitzer Park area for bar-hopping. Luzia (Oranienstraße 34) is a cosy, candlelit Kreuzberg institution. Beers from €3.50. Then Club der Visionaere on the canal for outdoor DJ sets until late.
Day 3: Prenzlauer Berg & Tiergarten
Sunday morning at the Mauerpark Flohmarkt (flea market) — one of Europe's best. Vintage clothes, vinyl records, GDR memorabilia. The Bearpit Karaoke amphitheatre kicks off around 3pm and is pure joy.
Brunch: The Barn (Schönhauser Allee 8) for the best coffee in Berlin — they roast their own and take it seriously. Or Anna Blume (Kollwitzplatz) for a flower-shop-café with towering cake slices (€5.50) and a gorgeous terrace.
Afternoon: Tiergarten — Berlin's Central Park. Walk or rent a bike and ride to the Siegessäule (Victory Column, €4 to climb, 360° views). Continue to the Reichstag — the glass dome is free but requires advance booking at bundestag.de (do this 2-3 weeks ahead).
Final dinner: Burgermeister (under the Schlesisches Tor U-Bahn arch) — a legendary burger shack in a converted public toilet. Meisterburger €6.50. Then a final beer at Klunkerkranich — a rooftop bar on top of a Neukölln car park with skyline views and DJ sets.
Budget Breakdown
- Flights: £20-50 return (Ryanair/easyJet to Schönefeld)
- Accommodation: €30-50/night (Berlin has Europe's best hostel scene)
- Food: €15-25/day (döner + currywurst + one sit-down meal)
- Attractions: ~€30-40 (many free, Museum Island pass if interested)
- Transport: €8.80/day (Berlin AB day ticket)
- Total 3 days: £180-320 per person
Berlin is Europe's cheapest major capital for visitors. A beer is €3. A döner is €5. A club entry is €10-15. Try spending money — Berlin makes it hard.